Last night I was visited in my dream by the Satara varan devi, known in English as the four guardian deities of Buddhist Sri Lanka.(1) Upon waking, I quickly wrote down what I could recall in this book.
I had appeared before them as though summoned. While I have never been there in person, I immediately recognised the location as Sigiriya Rock from my Lonely Planet travel guide—it had the same geology, but the ruins were replaced by tall, impressive structures. Not fifteen feet away they stood: anthropomorphic manifestations of gods.
The small blue one stepped forward. “I am Uppalavanna, guardian of the North.” A pause. “You may know me as Vishnu.” A flicker of recognition crossed my face. The placated god continued. “We are the guardian deities of Sri Lanka, and we hear you hope to visit.”
Without awaiting confirmation, the tall god with many faces lunged forward. “I am Saman, ruler of the South, and we are here to ensure that you respect the natural order of our country.”
With that, the third God—who I later identified as Kataragama—inhaled gutturally before belching a huge plume of black soot that spread for miles into the sky. It invaded my throat and settled in my lungs. My eyes welled. The tall god continued, “That is 2.5 tonnes of CO2 gas, equivalent to what you will emit for a return flight here.(2) A way you can reduce excess emissions while in Sri Lanka is to eat local, plant-based meals. This helps you experience Sri Lankan culture and lowers emissions from farming and imports.”
“SDG 12,” croaked the fourth God, who had clearly done his research on the UN Sustainable Development Goals.(3)
Impatiently, Uppalavanna proceeded: “A great way to enjoy Sri Lankan cuisine is through guesthouses and homestays. This also supports the local economy—”
“SDG 8: Decent work and economic growth.” By process of elimination, the fourth God was Natha. The name’s meaning of “no form” was fitting, since my recollection of their appearance is hazy.(4)
Somewhat flustered, the blue god continued: “The activities you choose also impact sustainable tourism. Hiking, surfing, and swimming are all carbon-minimal ways to enjoy Sri Lanka. With other activities, it’s important to use approved providers to protect wildlife. When you go diving, research operators to ensure they follow sustainable practices. With homestays, you can find approved options on the Sri Lanka Tourism Development Authority website.(5) SDG 13 demands urgent climate action, and your efforts will help fulfil this.”
Finally, the third God spoke: “By using carbon-efficient transport, sustainable companies, and approved services like homestays, you can support the communities and wildlife of our beautiful country. Thank you for agreeing to our terms and we look forward to seeing you soon.”
I was halfway through a nod of agreement when the Gods, my surroundings and indeed myself rapidly began to evaporate.
Then I was awake.
(1)https://oxfordre.com/religion/display/10.1093/acrefore/9780199340378.001.0001/acrefore-9780199340378-e-757
(2) https://flightemissionmap.org/
(3) https://sdgs.un.org/goals
(4) https://daladamaligawa.org/natha.htm
(5) https://www.sltda.gov.lk/en/sustainable-tourism
